THE CENSUS

I slept in until 9 am - what a dream! I had shopped for snacks before I left Cuzco, so I dug out some crackers and juice fro breakfast on the terrace. I knew that there was a census this Sunday, and that Peruvians had been ordered by law to remain in their homes from 6:30 - 6:30 until they had been interviewed. My host at Hostal Regis informed me this included me. I was not aware, but was glad I slept in, and didn´t try to start my day out on the town early. The questions were pretty basic and impersonal. I didn´t plan to get out early because I knew very little woul be open. This is an exaggeration because almost nothing was open. The Plaza de Armas was tourist central, and pigeon central. None of the tourist shops or agencies were open. However, the monastery of Santa Catalina was open. I saw tourist bus after tourist bus unload there. I waited till the afternoon to go, and it was much more tranquilo. I think I went through backwards, but that´s sounds like me, huh? The artwork was beautiful. The architecture was pretty incredible, considering this was a city within a city - with streets and laundry and church and everything. No police station, but I think Mother Superior probably kept her nuns in line. There were so many casitas, all connected by walls, but all private. It was incrdeible how many people could live there. I was quite enamored with it, and took photos until my batteries died. (Turned out my charger wasn´t charging...had to replace it from one at a corner shop because Radio Shack didn´t open until really late.) I spoke with a man traveling from UK. He´d been workingin a hospital in Lima studying tropical diseases, something they don´t have much of in UK. It was awkward, but really just a relief to be able to say something outloud. Everybody knows I like to talk, so it can be difficult going a day silent. I headed on for lunch, but still nothing was open. I walked around some more, journaled on many parkbenches. I finally found the office of Colonial Tours open, so I could book a trek into the Colca Canyon. Miki highly recommended them, but unfortunately they couldn´t get me in for a three day starting Monday. I could do a two day starting Tuesday, but that meant getting up at 1:30 am for a bus, hiking some serious klicks, and rising at 2:30 am the second day to finish. Yikes! (One fellow thinks he remembers you, Miki, but Omar mostly does the bus tours now.) Gratefully, as we were discussing the options, another woman offered that they could get me on a three day starting Monday with another group. This was great! I picked up some more sunscreen and bugspray at the corner pharmacy, and I was set. I didn´t have a lot of time before the night mass at the Jesuit church, so I ran back to my room to dress warmer. I tried to grab a falafel, but waited too long to be seated and even longer for a menu. What a lousy day of snacking! Mass was nice, but it seems you can come anytime during the service. I also don´t know why everyone doesn´t go to communion. Peruvian mysteries... Up at 5 am Monday for the trip, so I packed and tried to sleep. Hasta! tori